jason wu f/w 2012

For his fall 2012 collection, designer Jason Wu went in a completely different direction than his youthful, girly collection for Target. The show opened with two big doors bathed in red light swinging open to allow fog to spill out onto the runway. The first model emerged from the smoke, stomping her heart out with her hair tied back in a slick, blunt cut ponytail, wearing a military green cape-coat with a black lace overlay.

What followed was a show broken into three segments, each of them powerful, sophisticated, and much more tailored and sexified than what we've come to expect from Wu. The first passage of the show continued in the military vein, but with a very Wu, extremely luxe interpretation. Curve hugging seams, lots of fur, and a red, olive, and black color palette took the military inspiration way beyond epaulettes and brass buttons. Next came a series of beautifully embroidered, more fur, and opulent florals. The show closed with an evening series that was a far cry from Wu's usual diaphanous, voluminous ball gowns. For fall, the silhouette is a cascading, liquid skirt slit high up the thigh.

Overall, this collection was a more agressive, in your face offering than anything Wu has created to date. It was dramatic, theatrical, and very, very exciting. See the complete collection here.

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