This season marks designer Raf Simons final collection for Jil Sander. When he took over the house in 2005, when Jil Sander the person left her eponymous label for the second time because of conflict with parent company Prada, Simons was an on-the-rise menswear designer. He was known for incredible tailoring and suits, but he had no experience designing womenswear. It was a huge risk, but it paid off - big time. In the years since, Simons has created beautiful collection after beautiful collection, remaining true to the minimalism of his predecessor while introducing new shapes and constantly moving the narrative forward. His collections were marked by a couture sensibility, and their impact was felt across the fashion world.
His final collection was no exception. Set in an austere white space, the runway was lined with preserved floral arrangements in clear plexiglass cubes. Rather than setting the scene for a funereal collection, the flowers were reflected in the delicate color palette, subtle sensuality, and quiet power of the clothes. Blushy nude and barely there pastels dominated the collection, in clutch coats, full skirts with patent insets, and corset dresses with draped skirts. The collection had an understated '50s couture vibe without feeling retro. For someone who got his start in menswear, it was one of the most exquisitely feminine collections of the season. Jil Sander the person, who is returning to her namesake label when Simons departs, has some big shoes to fill.
See the complete fall collection here and a retrospective of Simons' collections for Jil Sander here.