Fall 2012 was Stefano Pilati's final collection for Yves Saint Laurent. Since taking over seven years ago when Tom Ford left the label, Pilati has become one of the most celebrated designers working in fashion today. But he was always plagued by replacement rumors (apparently former YSL executive Pierre Berge wasn't a fan of his work and even excluded him from the opening of the YSL retrospective at the Petit Palais in 2010), and his resignation was announced just days before the fall show (reports indicate that Hedi Slimane is taking the reins now).
At least Pilati's leaving on a high note.
When I watched the video of the fall show this morning, I was blown away. It's one of my favorites of the season. Here are the notes I took during the show:
- edgy, noir sensuality
- love all the leather trim on the suiting and outerwear, the cape is amazing
- chainmail - sooooo sexy
- incredible graphic, oversize calla lily print, calla lilies as 3-D effect on leather top!
- fierce shoes, calla lily necklaces are beautiful
- relatively easy evening wear is an interesting counterpart to the severity of the rest of the collection
- the enthusiastic standing ovation during the finale is testament to how well-loved Stefano is (also, love the glimpse of Anna Dello Russo dressed in a cloud of white feathers!)
The fashion world may love Pilati, but for whatever reason, the YSL brass no longer does. His tenure has left a mark on the house, though (see a retrospective of his work for YSL here), and it will be interesting to see what the future holds for YSL. It will be even more interesting to see what the future holds for Pilati.